A Few Grainte Questions

[Quantum Granite]

Hi I have a few questions about a granite install I need to do this weekend.  Any help will be appreciated.  The granite is 3cm thick Black Pearl.

Is the following the best order for cutting an undermount sink opening (about 29" wide x 18" deep) on a 42" wide by 26" deep section of 3cm thick granite:
 
1. Mark the sink cutout.
2. Locate and cut grooves for rods on the underside at the front and back.
3. Epoxy in 1/4" or 3/8" threaded rods.
4. Cut and polish the sink cutout.
5. Drill the faucet holes.
 
Also, I have the knifegrade 29 minute epoxy.  I know flowing would be best, but I need to do this this weekend and I only have the knife grade right now.  Will this be OK for the rods?  I either use this or no rodding.
 
Also, if I support an additional seperate slab on both sides, will there be a problem spanning over a 30" wide dishwaser opening without using a plywood subtop underneith the 3cm slab?

Where is the best place to get fine steel wool for polishing up polyester resin seams?

For the corner between the top and the backsplash, is black silicone better or transparent silicone on the Black Pearl granite.  I would think black, but I would just like to get opinions.

[Mark D.]

I like the way you have this plotted out, with one exception. I would drill the faucet holes after installing the countertop. You can drill them in place easily enough and that makes life a little easier.

The Instant Install will work fine for the rodding. Cut the groove, fill the groove with the epoxy, insert the rod and trowel the built up epoxy over the back of the slab to smooth it out.

I won't comment on the span as I am not an architect.

Fine steel wool? Go to a hardware or crafts store.

I like the black silicone, but that is a preference. Either will work.

Glad to be of service,
Mark

[Quantum Granite]

Mark,

Thanks for the information on the epoxy for rodding.  Although I did not get to cut the sink hole yet, the rodding went good.  I plan on cutting the sink hole tomorrow.  I will then polish it, and I have the Tenax Wax Black for my black granite.

Do you have any tips and or suggestions for polishing (dry) and using this wax to get the best match (color and gloss) of the sink hole cutout to the factory finish?


I also have the Tenax Knifegrade Polyester Resin and color dyes for doing the seams.  Do you have to prep the saw-cut edges of the slabs in anyway before you seam them together with uncolored resin and then do the color matching fill-in resin on the top?  The saw cut edges are much lighter than the dark polished granite, and although I will try to minimize the seam gap, I don't want any of the lighter color to show through.  Will the color matched resin for the top fill of the seams take care of it?  Or is there anything extra recommended?

Also, how long after doing the seam joint should I wait untill I do the color matched top fill?

Thank you again!!!

[Mark D.]

What kind of pads do you have? Only good ceramic dry pads will make black stone pop. You should not have to wax it to get the gloss you want as wax is only temporary while polishing the stone affects the stone for a more permanent gloss.

If you want to prep the seam edges backgrind 2 degrees so the top edges hit. Use poly resin underneath and top coat with colored poly to match the base color of the stone. The saw cut edges will be lighter as they are scratched. When the seam comes together they will be hidden in the seam.

You can do the top coat 20 minutes after you set the countertop.

Glad to be of service,
Mark