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Author Topic: Installing Granite Countertops  (Read 6022 times)
blue_can
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« Reply #30 on: November 12, 2007, 11:56:45 PM »

The blade I'm using is a Bosch Turbo Rim diamond blade - the part number is DB742C The package says it is suitable for dry cutting granite among other stone/masonry items.

As for the drywall - the counter will be installed horizontally and I was not planning on putting a backsplash. I guess fixing the drywall would be the logical thing to do - the one thing that always puts me off small drywall repairs is that since it is almost impossible to find a good color match to the original color, for the patch not to be noticed you have to paint the whole wall again when you do this. On the other hand I could possibly patch and then paint a small border around the counter with a color similar to the counter so it may look like a design rather than an item to hide a problem.
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Mark D.
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« Reply #31 on: November 13, 2007, 07:04:51 AM »

The bosch blade you have is NOT designed for cutting granite slabs. It is a combination blade suitable for masonry materials. While it will cut granite the bond is too hard to cut it freely (with very little resistance). Since the bond (the metal which holds the diamonds in place) is too hard you don't have enough diamond edges exposed so the blade requires more power to make the cut, whether that power is you pushing or your saw whining or both. A softer bond blade that is designed for granite will cut more freely which will allow you to keep the saw down in the cut instead of it wanting to pull out of the cut.
Another big difference between the Bosch blade and a Top quality turbo blade that is designed for premium performance on slab is the Bosch blade has a very wide comb (the size of the individual "teeth" in the rim). Top quality turbo blades made for stone have a much tighter comb. This allows for smoother cuts. While you will sill have to clean up the cut edge it is much smoother to begin with. Just out of curiosity, where is the Bosch blade made?

Here are pics of your blade and our best 7" turbo rim blade for cutting granite. This 7" Disco-Sea blade for granite is excellent quality and will cut faster, smoother and freer than the Bosch blade. It will even outlast it. That's why this blade costs about twice as much as the one you have.




Glad to be of service,
Mark
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blue_can
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« Reply #32 on: November 13, 2007, 09:39:49 AM »

Mark - can you include that blade in the order if it has not already shipped.
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blue_can
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« Reply #33 on: November 13, 2007, 10:31:04 AM »

Can you also quote on a 4-1/2" blade of the same type in addition to the 7".

Also forgot to answer your question - I just checked the package - it says made in China.
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Mark D.
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« Reply #34 on: November 13, 2007, 12:10:59 PM »

Your order shipped yesterday...we are too quick.
Here are the links:

Both of these blades are made by Disco Sea. They are an excellent quality.

This is the Disco-Sea 4 1/2" blade
http://www.defusco.com/Diamond-Products-Dry-Cutting-Turbo-Rim-Blades/c25_23/p2105/4-1/222-DISCO-BLUE-STONE-TURBO-BLADE/product_info.html

This is the 7" blade:
http://www.defusco.com/Diamond-Products-Dry-Cutting-Turbo-Rim-Blades/c25_23/p2107/722-DISCO-BLUE-STONE-TURBO-BLADE/product_info.html

Mark
« Last Edit: November 13, 2007, 03:32:28 PM by Mark D. » Logged

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blue_can
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« Reply #35 on: November 13, 2007, 12:52:12 PM »

OK no problem - I will place a fresh order. It looks like I will be cutting lot of granite in the next several weeks. It seems like the most cost effective way to do the kitchen is to get pre-fabbed counter slabs and then cut them down to size. However since they only come in one width and some sections need to be cut to lesser widths there will be a lot of cutting involved.
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blue_can
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« Reply #36 on: November 16, 2007, 10:46:53 PM »

Mark - I had a question about the sealing products. Do I apply the ager first and then the sealer. The can says to apply the ager and then wipe off with paper towel or steel wool. If I use steel wool what grit should I use. Also do I need to buff the surface with the buff pads after applying the ager and also the sealer.

thanks
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Mark D.
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« Reply #37 on: November 17, 2007, 07:23:00 AM »

The Ager is a sealer. It is a resin based color enhancing sealer that will leave your stone the same color as if you had just run a wet cloth over it. It won't increase the shine but it will give it that deeper, darker, richer color.

The recommended way to apply the Ager is to wipe it onto the stone where you want to color enhance it. Let it sit on the stone for 10 - 15 minutes then buff off the residue with a clean rag. After another 10 minutes apply a second coat of Ager, allow to stand and buff off the residue. That part of the stone is now sealed and will remain sealed unless acted upon by an outside force.

If you have part of the stone you want to color enhance and part you do not want to enhance ( e.g. If it is a resined slab sometimes the edge detail will come out lighter than the slab face)  use Hydrex for the part that you do not want to change. Just wipe it on and let it dry, then do a second coat. Hydrex will not leave a greasy residue as it is mineral based, not resin based.

Once you have put the Ager or the Hydrex on it properly it is sealed, although full protection takes 24 hours. According to Tenax the products are still impregnating the stone for that time and have not fully dried.

Glad to be of service,
Mark
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