Basic questions related to installing prefab granite countertops

[joeaustin]

I'm going to install prefab granite counters, they already have the bullnose edge.  When I make a seam cut, will I be okay with my regular circular saw with the appropriate diamond blade?--I have heard about wet circular saws, wondering if I should buy one, and wondering if the better job they do on a cut will really make a difference for a seam?  My main worry is to have it get chipped too noticeably.  Also, when I make the seam cut, should I polish the edges before seaming them together permanently?  Lastly, I want to have polishing materials for future work with granite, mostly to make my own bullnose edges on granite tiles, so what would you recommend I purchase to have a good set on hand for use with my angle grinder?

[Mark D.]

You can make straight cuts on granite with a dry diamond blade, a Skilsaw, a straight edge and 2 'C' clamps as clean as any bridge saw provided you are using a diamond blade suitable for granite and it is set up at a true 90 degree angle to the plate on the bottom of the Skilsaw. We show this in our 3rd DVD.

The biggest trick to avoiding chips is to pull the saw through the cuts rather than pushing it through them. This is because a Skilsaw cuts from the bottom up through the front. That can cause chipping if you push it through the material. If you pull it through there will still be some chips, but they will be on the bottom of the slab and nobody will see them.

I would not polish the edges. Cut correctly they will seam fine and when you glue them together you won't feel the edge. The blade I recommend is either the Diamante italia Supreme Stone turbo or the Disco Sea Blue turbo for granite.

Make sure you cut both pieces at a 45 degree angle for seams. Do not try to notch it, cut it at a 45 degree for 2 inches and then rip it lengthwise. The $50 of material that you cannot use will be more than made up for by the clean & neat seam you create. The other seam is like trying to make puzzle pieces, and although you save a little stone it is very difficult to make it look good.

For polishing, if you have never done it before you should learn to polish dry - it is easier to learn the skill since the water from wet polishing enhances the color of the scratches making them less visible. This makes it more difficult to learn. All stone shops polish wet as it is more productive, but for the novice polishing dry is easier and develops the skill. I recommend the Diamante Italia dry resin polishing pads. They are long lasting and will give you the same finish as wet polishing, they just take a little longer to get there.

If you have any questions please call us at 800-289-6834.

Mark

[scottc]

I made my first straight-cut and install on a granite slab with the help of your DVD's, it looks great - thanks!
Questions:  You mention to cut the "L" shape in the kitchen countertop with a complete 45-degree.  Is this front to back, all 35+/- inches, not the 2" of 45-degree then 24" of parallel cut?
Next - should I put a slight, maybe 5-degree bevel on my saw base to try to cut-away some of the beef to get a cleaner seam on the top, or keep the saw base at 90-degrees (straight up-and-down)?
Next - for my oval bath sinks (overcounter sink install, I'm not ready for undermount yet), is there a 4-1/2" blade that will fit on my wet tile skil-type saw that allows for a slight curve to be made with that tool, or do I need to go with the grinding wheel or router or other?
Finally - to support the 3" narrow (potentally crack places) on a stove-top or kitchen sink cutout, you mention to put a 1/4" cut in the underside then glue in a metal rod - is that along the full back of the cutout (36+"), or just the corners, and is it on the entire front, back, and both sides of the cutout or just the back?
Thanks!

[Mark D.]

Yes, the 35" - a true 45 has a cleaner look than the jigsaw puzzle way you describe after that.

I wouldn't bevel it, a straight cut is fine. Any time you cut an angle you take a chance of things not fitting correctly. A lot of things look good on paper but don't work that way in application.

for the drop in sink, why don't yo use your grinder with a 4 1/2" blade (5" if it is 3cm slab)? Since you already have a grinder that would be your best bet. I would recommend one of these:
http://www.defusco.com/supreme-granite-turbo-blade-p-1819.html
http://www.defusco.com/disco-blue-stone-turbo-blade-p-2105.html

It is generally run the length of the stone under the weak portion to strengthen it for transporting the slab from the shop to the customer's home. If you are not transporting it and there is support underneath (a subdeck on your cabinets or even the top lip of the cabinet where you need to support the weak link) it would not be necessary. You might want to call me about this at 800-289-6834.

Glad to be of service,
Mark